St Croix History Archives | My St Croix Travel Guide Virgin Islands Vacation Blog

January 31, 2018 Filed Under: Featured, St Croix History, Travel Tips, Vacation Tips, Where to Stay St Croix

Who wants to Sleep with Fred? I do! I do!

Hip. Modern. Historic.

That may sound like an oxymoron, but “The Fred” St Croix’s first new hotel to open in 30 years is all that and more.

The Lobby at The Fred St Croix Hotel — The absolutely fabulous Totten House Lobby at The Fred

Patience and perseverance have absolutely paid off with the opening of The Fred. Working with Historic Preservation and Coastal Zone management to open the beachfront boutique hotel complex wasn’t always easy, but Topher and Jeff persisted and used their expertise in property development and management to create an incredible oasis that honors both local history and incorporates modern conveniences appreciated by today’s traveler. All while maintaining a focus on the environment.

Their story starts a few years ago when Jeff decided he was tired of the cold, the traffic and the hustle of life in the DC Metro area. He announced he wanted to move to an island. Topher’s response was “I’ve always wanted to live on an island! Manhattan!” But Jeff had warmer, more tropical ambitions and so they started on a 14 island quest to find the perfect place to call home. Eventually, they made it to St Croix and fell in love. It had just the right amount of space, tranquility and up-and-comingness to meet their requirements.

I had the pleasure of taking a tour of the hotel property which recently had its soft opening and got the inside scoop on all the truly exciting things planned for the final phases.

Named for King Frederik of Denmark (the namesake of Frederiksted) The Fred had its soft opening this past winter 2017 and currently has 12 of the planned 22 guest rooms open for reservations with deep discounts offered as they continue to finish the final phases of construction. The plans shared with me by proprietor, Topher Swanson, during our tour had me giddy with excitement!

Topher and his partner Jeff have a deep background in property management, including hosting very successful AirBnB accommodations stateside. They’ve taken their expertise and divine sense of detail to create the best of the best in hotel experiences on St Croix. The Fred aims to envelope you in Crucian history, while offering luxury and hi-tech amenities. Borrowing from their own traveling experiences abroad, they have also structured the boutique hotel complex to encourage guests to mingle with each other in the guest house sitting areas, at “family breakfasts” and in the common areas. By fostering a sense of community at The Fred, they hope to inspire guests to make lifelong connections that bring them back year after year.

Topher Swanson at The Fred — Hotel owner Topher Swanson relaxes on the back porch of Totten House

What made you choose St Croix?

“The US. Because we could own land here. English was the spoken language. US Dollar was the currency. All the federal rules apply and as a gay man that was important to me in the Caribbean. Because not all the islands are gay-friendly. We went to St Thomas and St John. St Thomas was kind of urban again and didn’t feel like an island sometimes. Puerto Rico didn’t feel like an island and traffic was horrible, worse than DC. St John felt like Georgetown… too many rules, too much ‘country club’ for my taste. … And then we literally got here and said ‘this feels like DC 20 years ago’, its great! At the Destination Symposium they referred to St Croix as the most historic island in the Caribbean which is neat. They also called it the ‘chill’ island.” ~ Topher Swanson

For the History Buff

The Fred is a conglomeration of historic structures. Two of them, Totten House and Murray House were historic homes that had families attached to them. Rooms throughout The Fred are named for members of the prominent families who once called them home.

Labor leader Ashley Totten, left, with Congressman Adam Clayton Powell, Jr. & physician James L. Wilson. American Virgin Islands Civic Association, 1950s

Totten House was the home of Ashley Totten, a celebrated civil rights leader and the co-founder of the Brotherhood of the Sleeping Car Porters Union which was the first African-American led labor resistance and part of the Haarlem Renaissance.

Ashley’s father was a grave-digger and from historical research it seemed that he was religious and believed strongly in family. Census records show that his father, Arlington, lived with him for an extended period of time through Ashley’s adulthood. Todd was married twice, first to Camilla who passed away, then to Violet.

Thus, rooms in Totten House bear the names of Totten family members: “Ashley & Camilla”, “Violet”, “Arlington”, “Walter” (his son), “Bertrand” and “Millie”.

The Rachel at The Fred — The Rachel located in the “Love Shack”

The Rachel patio at The Fred — The Rachel’s private beachfront sitting area

The Fred beachfront views — Just a short walk to the Frederiksted Pier – perfect for snorkeling and rated one of the Top 10 pier scuba dives in the world!

Another of the homes at The Fred is Douglas House, once owned by textile and style maven Murray Douglas who was the Vice Chair and Heiress of Brunschwig & Fils. Brunschwig & Fils textiles have, for decades, adorned high profile homes and iconic places like the Oval Office and the Palace at Versaille. Legend has it that Murray was sitting at a local restaurant (possibly in Totten House) and saw through the window that the home was for sale. She bought it sight-unseen. Yep, the draw to Frederiksted is that strong. Trust me, you’ll feel it when you’re here. As you enter the building, you’ll come up stairs made of historic Danish yellow brick and be charmed by the original Victorian-era gingerbread trim. You’ll feel like Crucian royalty when you stay here as the famed fabrics adorn the rooms in Douglas House, a nod to Murray. In Douglas House you’ll find “Murray”, “Albert” (her husband), “Frances” (her son) and “Aunt B” (Murray’s Aunt Zelina Brunschwig, founder of the famed textile house).

The Frances at The Fred — The Frances opens right out to a beachfront view.

The Frances Shower at The Fred — Modern touches abound throughout the boutique hotel like The Frances’ walk-in tiled shower. Note the crown detail on the TP which is made of recycled paper!

The Fred Murray House porch — Classic gingerbread trim on Murray House is an iconic feature of downtown Frederiksted

For the Environmentalist

The pride of the property are the Capstone Microturbine generators. The turbine is run by frictionless magnets keeping it quieter and it’s fueled by propane. The exhaust is recycled 9 times before being discharged. Eventually, in regards to electricity, The Fred will be completely self-sustaining and off the grid making the property entirely green. The entire property, at full occupancy, with every hair dryer running produces less carbon footprint than one automobile.
The common bathroom/changing rooms by the pool are unisex and designed with a comfortable grated floor (I tested it with bare feet!) so that sand and water runs right through. Because, there’s an overhead shower inside for rinsing off too! The “sweet water” will be used to irrigate the landscaping.
The large saltwater pool has an infinity “knife edge”. When water is displaced from folks stepping in, the overflow goes into a dedicated cistern and is recycled and pumped back in when everyone gets out.
Environmentally-friendly practices and products are used throughout the boutique hotel.

The Details

No details have been left to chance at The Fred. This is where High-Tech meets History!

Each house has its own unique style. The colors on the walls are recommended by sleep psychologists to invoke a deeper REM sleep.
All mattresses are Tempurpedic brand for comfort.
Pillows on the bed are down firm and poly firm. Eventually, the plan is to have a “pillow menu” where you can choose your pillows prior to check-in.
Chandelier in Totten House is also a ceiling fan!!
Flat Screen TVs are state-of-the-art and allow you to enter your own accounts on Netflix, Hulu, etc. And you’ll be able to check your bill in real-time.
Each room has a coordinated balcony sitting area. The spaces are shared with your neighbor encouraging guests to mingle and share information.
For those addicted to their devices, like me, there’s an outlet at every bar seat to plug in!

Desk at The Fred — The Fred’s crown is a playful motif you’ll see throughout the property. Who wouldn’t want to jot down a note at this desk?!

Chandelier fan at The Fred — This uber cool chandelier is also a ceiling fan with clear acrylic blades that span out at the click of a button! Tres chic!! (you can juuust see the blur of the fan blades in this image)

The Fred Mini Bar — Each room is well stocked with an array of goodies in the Mini Bar

The Fred Mini Bar Snacks — Including local favorites like “Rasta popcorn”

The Timeline

Updated as of May 2019

Currently, there are 12 guest rooms available in Totten House, Murray House, and The Love Schack.
An additional 10 rooms are slated to open soon in the newly built Prinz/Swanson House which will still have a historic flair.
The restaurant should be open and you’ll be able to Eat at The Fred sometime after July 2019.
The beachside, modern Sky Deck with satellite bar and wading pool is expected to be open then too.
The expansive knife edge pool will be finished by end of summer 2019.
A 17 foot wide boardwalk has been installed along the entire stretch of the beach, eventually, this will include dinner seating.
The Fred will also feature a 400 sq foot mostly floating dock. With moveable sections, it can extend 80 feet for boats to dock. During weddings and events, it can be shifted in a more wide orientation for effect.

Sky deck at The Fred — Along the property will be a boardwalk above the rocky area to the left abutting the structures. Top left is the Skydeck where guests can sit in the wading pool on lounge chairs, cocktail in-hand and this view!!

The Fred Pool St Croix — Central to The Fred hotel complex is the enormous knife edge pool (in progress) Note the crown! The pink building to the back will be replaced with the new 10-room Printz/Swanson guest house.

The Fred Hotel — The main beachfront bar can be seen to the right which will be accessible to the boardwalk. Above the bar is the Sky Deck that features a satellite bar and seating with killer views.

The Fred Restaurant under construction — The main dining area at the Fred. The 200 year old seawall provides a stunning historic backdrop to the uber modern structure. Main bar is to the left, Sky Deck above.

Relax with Fred

You’ll find full service at the top notch spa where you can Relax with Fred. Sit back in the fab-u-lous pedicure chair to get your tootsies beach ready. Indulge in a massage to relax into island mode. Treat your skin to a professional facial or get ready to step out on the town with a cut, color and blow out!

Relax with Fred pedicures — Check out the sweet mercury glass foot bath. Sans jets it keeps things perfectly sanitized.

Shop with Fred

No boutique hotel is complete without swag. You can find Fred branded items as well as other traveler treats and St Croix souvenirs in their gift shop. Right now it’s open M-F from about 1pm to 5pm and on Cruise ship days. Be sure to grab a pair of Bottles Reimagined upcycled Cruzan Rum glasses or soy candles while you’re there!

Keeping it in the Family

While we wait patiently to “Eat and Drink with Fred” you can take a short stroll right next door to the newest beach bar in Frederiksted, Louie and Nachos! Not only does it have fantastic ocean views, but it also has a great story and fun connection to The Fred. Close friends of Topher and Jeff in DC were also ready for a change, so they headed down for a vacation and to check the island out. They fell in love with St Croix and stayed with the guys while they searched for the perfect beach bar location. Originally, they had been contracted for another spot, but that fell through at the last minute. As fate would have it, at the same time, the space next door to The Fred, above Turtles Deli, became available. The bar has counter seating all along the open air perimeter – so everyone has a view of the Caribbean sunset. Now serving lunch and dinner, the kitchen is open until 10pm – the perfect spot to grab a bite after a night dive at the Frederiksted Pier.

Fun Fact: The options on the drink menu are named after the doggie family members of the crew including the owners of The Fred! At lunch, I ordered Cassie’s Rum Punch and it turned out it was named after Topher’s pup Cassie who I had just met. And of course Louie and Nacho, are the bar owners dogs.

If you’re ready to sleep with Fred too click here for more details and to make a reservation.

March 21, 2017 Filed Under: Crucian Heritage, Featured, St Croix Events, St Croix History

Bringing St Croix’s Danish Colonial Past into the Digital Age

In late January 2017, I had the opportunity to work with a film production company capturing background video (b-roll) for a series of interviews about the digitizing of historical records for the Danish Archives.

The Danish National Archives in celebration of the 100th Anniversary of the transfer of the Danish West Indies to the United States, has embarked on an incredible project to not only digitize and archive all of their historical records from the colonial period (1672-1917), but also to make them accessible to the public. The project was started in 2013 and they began digitizing and uploading them last year (2016). In total there are now approximately 5 million documents and images including deeds, purchase records, family records (birth, marriage and death certificates) and more. Currently, the ongoing project is working on making the images and records searchable in addition to translating them into English via volunteers. The public can access records and historical information at Virgin-Islands-History.dk

The project coincides with the 100th Anniversary of Transfer Day on March 31, 2017. At exactly 11am on Saturday March 31, 1917 a check in the amount of $25 million was handed to the Danish Ambassador to the US for the purchase of the (now) United States Virgin Islands.

By making the archives digital and open to the public Denmark hopes to inspire Historians, Geneologists, Artists and anyone with an interest in the colonial Danish history of the US Virgin Islands. Of course, within that context I found myself to do a quick search to see if I could find some Pirate lore… here’s what I found with just a quick search:

In continuation of my most humble report dated the 20th of last month, I now have the honor to report that the frigate Minerva has again, by me, been sent to the Spanish coast by the attached order.

The reasons which have compelled me to do so are as follows: By the commencement of unrest in Venezuela and Puerto Rico, St. Thomas commerce has been significantly lowered for Americans and others, and it is therefore necessary for the inhabitants as well as for Your Majesty’s Revenues, if possible, to find new approaches.- The Kingdom of Grenada, which is in a somewhat calm condition and sources a quite considerable quantity of goods from St. Thomas, does not, on account of the pirates, send silver to St. Thomas which is the market that especially convene the inhabitants of said kingdom, who are [now] sending [ships] to Jamaica where they purchase more expensive and inferior goods because English men of war regularly protect their vessels or take their silver onboard… – Danish National Archives

Behind the Scenes footage tracing Denmarks history on St Croix with Annika, Aske (Chimney Group, Denmark) & Christian (Radius Communications, Denmark)

von scholten school mount victory st croix

August 25, 2016 Filed Under: Crucian Heritage, Featured, Marine Conservation, Nature Conservation, St Croix History, Things to Do on St Croix, Travel Tips, Vacation Tips, Where to Play St Croix

1 little Island with 3 National Parks!

St Croix may be a little island only 26 miles long and at it’s widest about 6 miles across, but we are blessed with THREE National Parks ensuring that we preserve and protect our beautiful environment while enjoying the great outdoors and learning about the island’s history.

Whether you’ve got a National Parks Pass or not – be sure to make each of these a stop on your next visit to St Croix!

Buck Island Reef National Monument

View of Buck Island from the East End of St Croix — View of Buck Island National Park from the East End Marine Park on St Croix

Located just about 2 miles off of St Croix’s North East Shore lies the uninhabited marine playground known as Buck Island Reef National Monument. The protected marine park lies mainly underwater with less than a third of it being the land known as Buck Island. The West end Reef contains a guided trail through one of the most beautiful coral gardens home to a wide variety of colorful marine life. The West end beach known as “Turtle Beach” is nesting ground to hawks-bill turtles and a popular spot for local boaters on the weekend. To get here you’ll have to hitch a ride with one of the NPSs approved Buck Island Tour Operators who will provide you with the boat ride, snorkel gear, expert guides and guaranteed entertainment!

Christiansted National Historic Site

Not only is the entire downtown area of Christiansted listed as a National Historic Site, but it includes the National Park System’s 7-Acre Christiansted National Historic Site. This beautiful urban park is the anchor of the downtown area and is comprised of a large historic complex that includes the iconic yellow Danish built Fort Christianvaern, a gorgeous waterfront sweeping lawn that hosts community, family-friendly events like the monthly Movies at the Fort, the historic Danish Count House and the oldest Church on the island now known as the Steeple Building. Explore the park and learn about the history of the island through displays in Fort Christianvaern from pre-history through the Danish colonies to today. You’ll find books and other gifts at the Count house and monthly talks in the park by NPS educators and other scholars on topics like history, ecology, historic preservation and more!

Salt River Bay National Historical Park and Ecological Preserve

Salt River Bay is a unique and amazing living history museum! Learn about pre-Columbian indigenous peoples who inhabited the island prior to Columbus’ Second Voyage to the “New World”in 1493. He stopped right here at Salt River and the first fight of sadly too many broke out between Columbus’ men and the local inhabitants of the Americas. Nowadays in season you can pop into the Visitor’s Center on the hill above the bay to enjoy rotating exhibits and learn more about the area. Year-round I highly recommend going out onto Salt River Bay on a kayak tour – and for those who want something really spectacular head out during the darker nights of the month to experience the BioBay! At the back of the bay is a tiny inlet that is filled with millions of little creatures who glow- or bioluminesce – in the water when you move your hand or your kayak. It’s an incredible natural phenomena that you won’t want to miss. Or if you just want to relax and take a swim, head over to Columbus Cove Beach.

One little island – three spectacular National Parks. Have you been to St Croix’s National Parks? Let us know in the comments below!

March 17, 2016 Filed Under: Crucian Heritage, Featured, Holidays on St Croix, Island Life, Live Music, Photography, St Croix Events, St Croix History, Travel Tips

Luck of the Irie: St Croix’s Irish Connection

Each year on the Saturday closest to St Patrick’s Day, Christiansted goes green as revelers flood the streets clad in t-shirts and costumes while cheering on the Annual St Patrick’s Parade. With the Irish diaspora representing over 100 million people, the raucous holiday is celebrated more outside of Ireland than within. And here on St Croix, it’s done with true Crucian gusto, though many don’t realize the strong Irish heritage that St Croix has.

The St Croix St Patrick’s Day Parade got it’s official start in 1969 when a group of local business men got together on March 17th and started to talk about local celebrations. They wondered why an island that celebrates at any excuse, didn’t have an official St Paddy’s celebration. So, they took matters into their own hands, got a flatbed and a piano and drove through the streets of Christiansted singing Irish and local songs. Today, that tradition has grown into the annual parade and after-party featuring bands on floating stages and throughout the town. During the parade, local majorette troupes, high school bands and carnival troupes tramp through the streets celebrating their Irish Caribbean Heritage on an island full of Armstrongs, O’Bryans, O’Neales, O’Reillys and more.

St Croix is proud of its diverse heritage that comes as a result of having flown the 7 flags of 6 different nations and the Knight’s of Malta since Columbus first landed in 1493. Though the Irish flag was not one of those, the island’s strong Irish connection is clear. It began alongside the Caribbean’s dark past and history with the rise of the sugar trade in the 1700’s. Along with other European nations in the eighteenth century, Ireland’s wealthy merchants got even wealthier with the trans-Atlantic slave trade. While not as successful in colonizing as the English, French, Spanish, and Dutch, they were the vast majority on the island of Montserrat with a strong presence on neighboring Antigua and Nevis that began in the 1600’s. There, merchants established plantations worked by both African slave labor and indentured farmers from Ireland.

www.my-stcroix.com — St Croix’s importance to the sugar trade can be seen by the many Sugar Mills that dot her landscape to this day. Find more St Croix Images.

In 1733, the Danish West India company purchased the island of St Croix and began to develop their colony. The Danes had the money and mercantile expertise, but lacked the experience and manpower needed to develop sugar plantations on the fertile island. So, they recruited Irish Montserratians and laborers directly from Ireland to move to the new Danish colony on St Croix. One of those Irish Montserratians was Nicholas Tuite who eventually owned 7 Crucian plantations and was part owner of 7 more. In the height of the sugar craze in the West Indies, St Croix was dotted with over 150 Sugar Plantations and was booming. “In 1760 [Tuite] journeyed to Copenhagen, where Fredrick V appointed him chamberlain and paid tribute to his role as founder of Denmark’s Caribbean empire. … slave-trading and plantation-owning had made him the friend of kings.” – History Ireland: The Irish and the Atlantic slave trade.

While there were a few wealthy Irish plantation owners like Tuite, most of the Irish who initially populated the Danish colony on St Croix were laborers. And while many of the West Indians who today bear the Irish surnames of the former slave owners, many also have shared heritage from the Irish laborers who became a part of the eclectic cultural fabric of the island and had intermarried with those of African descent. And that brings us to the beautifully diversity of the St Patrick’s Day parade on St Croix.

If you haven’t yet been and won’t make it this year, be sure to make plans for next year. Slainte!

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February 15, 2016 Filed Under: Crucian Heritage, Featured, Island Life, St Croix Events, St Croix Food and Wine, St Croix History

Agrifest: A Caribbean Country Fair

Each year President’s weekend brings a celebration of Caribbean agriculture to the Big Island. Agrifest is the largest country fair in the Caribbean showcasing local produce, livestock, food, music and more.

Once known as the bread basket of the Caribbean, St Croix’s rolling green hills and fertile lowlands have recently rebounded with an agricultural renaissance. Nowadays, farm stands can be visited 365 days of the year offering locally grown seasonal fruits and vegetables. Many also offer fresh, free-range eggs and meat. Growers like Sejah Farm and Ridge to Reef Farm have led the charge to meet the demands of local restaurants and consumers. In the main building you’ll find farmers from across the island and throughout the Caribbean selling plants, fresh produce, jams and jellies, hot sauces and seasoning, fresh local honey and more.

Vendors also offer handmade items made locally in the Virgin Islands and across the Caribbean.

Like any country fair, it’s a chance for 4-H, farms and others to showcase their livestock.

But my favorite part is, of course, the local food!

Agrifest happens each year over President’s weekend from Friday through Monday. It’s a terrific event to plan your trip around!

October 12, 2015 Filed Under: Crucian Heritage, Eco-friendly, Eco-Tour, Featured, Island Life, Sea Kayak, St Croix History, St Croix Watersports, Watersports

Columbus Landing 1493 St Croix

In 1493 Christopher Columbus landed on what would later become St Croix, US Virgin Islands at Salt River Bay changing the course of the island’s history and setting the stage for 7 European Flags to fly over the island. This is the only spot in the United States where Columbus actually landed and was the first violent altercation between the Old World and the New. Salt River Bay National Historical Park and Ecological Preserve marks an area of incredible history not only for the island but for the world in general.

For thousands of years, Arawak (Igneri and Taino) and Carib Indians inhabited the area now known as Salt River Bay/Columbus Landing. Archaeological research dating back to 1880 shows that the land here was a major religious and cultural area and had long-term permanent settlements. Arawak is a broad term that refers to the indigenous peoples of South America and the Caribbean who spoke a common language and had a shared culture. Taino is more commonly used for the “Island Arawaks” who stretched from the Greater Antilles up through the Lesser Antilles (where St Croix can be found) as opposed to the mainland Arawaks. These first inhabitants of the Caribbean Islands had a rich culture and history and previous excavations at Salt River revealed the only ceremonial Ball Court in the Caribbean here on St Croix, lending to its historical significance. The area was thriving with indigenous peoples cultivating manioc, soursop, papaya, guava, sapote, yellow sapote, guava, sapodilla, and avocado and fishing in the locally rich waters.

Read more detail about the indigenous peoples of Salt River: Archeological Investigations at Salt River Bay National Historical Park and Ecological Preserve

Columbus Landing St Croix My-StCroix — Enjoy this incredible view from Clairmont Overlook and several other villas by www.vacationstcroix.com

On November 14, 1493, Columbus with his fleet of 17 ships landed on St Croix in search of freshwater and local guides to “help” them along the rest of their journey. A small party ventured onto the island and found a sparsely inhabited village. According to historic records, they found Taino Indians who said they’d been captured by Caribs taking over the island. (note: there is still debate as to who these peoples actually were – Taino vs. Carib) Columbus and his crew were en route taking the villagers back to their ship when they encountered a canoe with several Carib men and women. A skirmish ensued with Columbus’ men firing on the Indians and the Indians retaliating with arrows. Each side lost a man to the fight. At the time of this encounter, it is estimated that there were 20 Indian villages on St Croix with a total population of approximately 1,200. Columbus “claimed” the island for Spain calling it Santa Cruz.

For the next 100 years, the Spanish battled the local Taino and Carib Indians close to annihilation. By the early 1600s, the island of Santa Cruz was deserted.

Nowadays, the Virgin Islands celebrate Virgin Islands/Puerto Rico Friendship Day in lieu of Columbus Day owing to the historic connections between the peoples of St Croix and Puerto Rico that date back to long before European contact.

Salt River National Historical Park and Ecological Preserve is now a part of the US National Park system and is a wonderfully serene spot to explore the natural wonders of our island.

kayak salt river bay — Kayaking across Salt River Bay

History and nature buffs can book a kayak tour with Virgin Kayak Company to explore the mangrove coves and learn about the history from artist and tour operator Bryan Updyke. I highly encourage a visit to their shop at the Columbus Cove Marina where you can see Bryan’s Taino-inspired artwork at his Caribbean Indigenous Arts & Crafts Museum that has been influenced by the indigenous pre-Columbian peoples of St Croix.

SCUBA divers can explore the underwater canyons in Salt River Bay teeming with life. In recent years, tech divers have explored the canyons to depths of 300 feet+.

Take an evening kayak tour of Salt River and experience the wonders of the Bio Bay – a smaller inlet of Salt River Bay that teems with bioluminescent dinoflagellates that light up the water like Avatar!

The beach at Columbus Landing is quiet and rarely busy. It offers great swimming and has a reef just offshore for snorkeling. There’s little to no shade and no facilities, so be sure to bring a cooler and some shade and most importantly, practice “Carry in, Carry out”.

Salt River and Columbus Landing are just one more reason to get out and explore our beautiful island while you are here!

September 22, 2015 Filed Under: Crucian Heritage, Featured, St Croix History, St Croix Night Life, St Croix Restaurants, St Croix Scuba diving, Travel Tips, Vacation Tips

Travel Channel’s Real St Croix

When producer and television host Shane Reynolds (aka Shane O of Color Earth Productions, Shane Untamed on NatGeo) contacted me about filming an episode of his new Travel Channel series Real on St Croix, I was so excited! I got to become friends with Shane and his wife, Romona, on their last trip to St Croix a few years ago. Shane has worked with my good friend Jerry of MJS Visions on several cool projects, so I was thrilled when he asked me to help him find the perfect locations and “characters” for this look at the island through a different lens. He sifted through long lists of local movers and shakers and business owners that I provided and we talked at length about the current challenges facing the island. And about the things that make us all fall deeply in love with the island. From there, he crafted a pretty terrific story line.

Meeting actress, journalist, activist and Travel Channel host Kinga Philipps was like meeting a long lost bff. We chatted nonstop and had so many of the same ideals and a need to share them with the world in our own ways. I really appreciate her perspective on our oceans and the duality of tourism and island life. Both the good and the not-so-good. Because though we certainly live in paradise – paradise isn’t perfect. Anywhere. The series Real (other episodes include Malibu, CA; Aspen, CO, Savannah, GA and Nantucket, MA – Watch the series here) focuses on not just the negatives of a tourist destination, but it celebrates those who are working to make a difference in their own little piece of paradise. This story makes St Croix REAL and I desperately love her, imperfections and all. After all it’s life’s bumps and challenges that make it interesting!

Is this the entire St Croix story? Of course not. You can’t tell the story of a place rich in history and culture and dripping with beauty in 15 minutes or even in a half-hour segment (Travel Channel air date TBD). But, I think this piece touches on some of the highlights of her story that we can dig into further.

So, if you’re looking for a vacation destination where you can interact with people making a difference in the world; chat at the beach bar with locals from all walks of life; experience history and culture every day; enjoy world-class SCUBA diving and snorkeling; and eat some of the best food in the world … St Croix is for you! Surf through our pages to discover things to do and places to stay and create your own real St Croix Adventure!

Many thanks to Vacation St Croix Villas for hosting the crew at Amonoka!

July 3, 2015 Filed Under: Crucian Heritage, Featured, Holidays on St Croix, Island Life, St Croix Events, St Croix History Tagged With: crucian heritage, crucian traditions, St Croix, St Croix Events, Virgin Islands, What to do on St Croix

Emancipation Day: A Truly Crucian Story

While many across the United States and it’s Territories are preparing for the 4th of July and American Independence celebrations, today July 3rd, marks a very important holiday here in the US Virgin Islands – Emancipation Day.

One of my favorite books is Island Beneath the Sea by Isabel Allende which tells the harrowing saga of Zarité from her slavery on a sugar plantation in Saint-Domingue through her escape and participation in the uprising and successful slave revolt in Haiti to her eventual arrival in New Orleans. It is historical fiction, but offers insight into a dark time and the struggles and strength associated with survival amidst such brutality. Here on St Croix, there’s a very similar and equally heroic story.

70 years after the revolutionists in the thirteen colonies rose up from tyranny in 1776 and 14 years before slaves were emancipated in the United States, the enslaved on St Croix banded together and coordinated an uprising. They were the second island in the Caribbean after Haiti to demand their freedom and set the precedent for emancipation throughout the Caribbean. Often it is said that Danish Governor Peter von Scholten abolished slavery. And while it is technically true, it was actually a slave uprising on July 3, 1848, that prompted him to do it much earlier than he had planned.

Appointed Governor-General in 1827 by King Frederick of Denmark, von Scholten was an advocate of the gradual emancipation of the slaves. Undoubtedly, his mistress and confidante, “free-coloured” Anna Heegaard, had an influence on his philosophies. The trans-Atlantic slave trade had ceased in 1803, but the brutality of forced slave labor on the sugar plantations continued on St Croix and throughout the Caribbean. In 1839, von Scholten began building schools to educate enslaved children. And it was in 1847 that Governor von Scholten put forward his 12-year plan to emancipate the enslaved. A plan that was quite unpopular with local plantation owners.

John Gottlieb (General Buddhoe) a skilled, freed slave was not about to wait 12 years. Buddhoe along with his Admiral Martin King organized the plantation slaves on the West End of St Croix and coordinated a gathering in Frederiksted at the blowing of the conch shell on the morning of July 3, 1848. A large group of slaves and free-coloureds stormed and took Fort Frederik and demanded that by noon the slaves be declared free or they would burn down the town. They sent the ultimatum to Governor von Scholten in Christiansted. Some hypothesize that von Scholten and Buddhoe may have had a previous clandestine agreement. Other stories have it that von Scholten was en route to the slave school at Mount Victory just outside of Frederiksted to oversee an exam when he received the word and was diverted. Either way, the deadline was extended slightly and by 3 pm von Scholten declared the slaves free avoiding what – knowing the history of the Haitian rebellion – undoubtedly could have been a very bloody battle with many casualties.

Ruins of the von Scholten School at Mount Victory Camp

Freedom for the slaves didn’t mean true emancipation and many of them still toiled in unfair conditions earning meager wages that kept them impoverished. In October 1878, labor organizers rebelled again … led by three rebel Queens for the “fyah burn” but that’s another story for another time.

St Croix and many other influential Crucians have had a significant impact on the United States and it’s history. West Indian-born Alexander Hamilton spent his formative years working for an accountant on St Croix and it was his Crucian benefactors that paid for his education in New York. He later became Chief Staff Aide to General George Washington, the 1st US Secretary of the Treasury and holds an esteemed place on the US $10 bill.

“The history of labor organizers and the long term impact of our history and how it ties into US history is significant. Many of the labor organizers in the early 1900s’ in New York were Crucians. Hubert Harrison is referred to as “the foremost Afro-American intellect of his time” and the “father of Harlem Radicalism.” – Frandelle Gerard, Director Crucian History and Nature Tourism (CHANT)

To learn more about the incredible history of St Croix and the US Virgin Islands while on St Croix, book a walking tour or a hike with one of the many knowledgeable guides at CHANT. You can also visit Estate Whim Museum, a part of the St Croix Landmarks Society to learn more about life on a working sugar plantation.

March 31, 2015 Filed Under: Crucian Heritage, Featured, St Croix History Tagged With: 7 flags, america's paradise, crucian heritage, crucian traditions, Island Life, organic act, tiphanie yanique, transfer day

Transfer Day in the Virgin Islands: Seven Flags Over St Croix

Living in the Virgin Islands it seems like every other week there is a holiday. Particularly because we celebrate all the traditional US Holidays, but there are also some important and historical USVI holidays in the mix. Each March 31st we celebrate Transfer Day in the US Virgin Islands.

So what the heck is Transfer Day anyways?

Since Columbus encountered and named the Virgin Islands (he landed on St Croix on his second trip in 1493 at Salt River), many countries have planted their flags on our shores. St Croix switched hands the most of any of the Virgin Islands and has a rich cultural past having flown seven flags over the island: Spain, England, Holland, France, the Knights of Malta, Denmark, and finally, the United States. In 1733, France sold the islands to the Danish West India Company and Denmark ruled the island colonies for almost 200 years. Because of the many different influences on the peoples of St Croix, you’ll find a rich tapestry of cultures woven together and reflected in Crucian food, customs, the local patois, and the beautiful historical architecture of downtown Christiansted and throughout the islands. The strong Danish influence is still celebrated with many Danes visiting throughout the year and the “Friends of Denmark Society” holding annual festivities. The WDY Cultural Dancers are often seen across the island sharing this joyful melange of culture through traditional dance.

On March 31, 1917 the Danish West Indies were officially transferred to the United States for $25 million. Ceremonies were held simultaneously on St Croix and St Thomas at 4pm on the date to commemorate the transfer. The negotiations began almost 50 years prior during the Civil War when the United States recognized that the islands provided a strategic outpost for the navy (fueling ships and protecting interests in the Panama Canal). The St Croix Landmarks Society posts an interesting and in-depth background of the historical significance of Denmark’s allegiance to the Union during the Civil War.

Today, because of the transfer, the United States Virgin Islands benefit from several conveniences for travelers from the US. We use the US Dollar $, the official language is English and US Citizens do not need to carry a passport when visiting the USVI. All persons leaving the territory via plane will pass through US Customs, so if you have a passport – we still recommend carrying it to make the process that much faster.

U.S. Citizens and Lawful Permanent Residents (LPR’s) who travel directly between parts of the United States, which includes Guam, Puerto Rico, U.S. Virgin Islands, American Samoa, Swains Island and the Commonwealth of the Northern Mariana Islands (CNMI), without touching at a foreign port or place, arenot required to present a valid U.S. Passport or U.S. Green Card. However, it is recommended that travelers bring a government issued photo ID and copy of birth certificate. – U.S. Customs & Border Protection

During the transfer of the islands to the United States, an agreement was put together called the Organic Act which allowed the US Virgin Islands, as a territory, to retain some autonomy and control (this was replaced by the Revised Organic Act of 1954) and also afforded residents of the islands United States Citizenship. One of the perks of the Organic Act is that our goods are allowed to be sold duty-free. Today, visitors are also allowed to carry back with them 6-bottles of alcohol (spirits are much cheaper here, especially since our world-famous Cruzan Rum and Captain Morgan are both distilled on St Croix) as long as 1 bottle was distilled in the Virgin Islands. Because rum is such a part of our culture and economy, our Department of Tourism has a deal with the airlines and though you’ll check your box of adult goodies, it won’t be charged as a checked bag nor count towards your bag allowance.

There are many reasons to celebrate America’s Paradise, the US Virgin Islands, every single day – but today is the official one!

Read Virgin Islands acclaimed author, Tiphanie Yanique’s epic generational saga of a Virgin Islands family Land of Love and Drowning: A Novel. This intriguing, almost mythological, tale is woven with historical moments like the Transfer of the Virgin Islands and the creation of the Open Shorelines Act of 1971 that allows for all beaches in the USVI to be accessible by everyone. It’s a great read that I highly recommend!
Tiphanie has also authored a delightful children’s book I am the Virgin Islands that celebrates the kaleidoscope of people and places found in the Virgin Islands. Guaranteed to make you smile!