In 1493 Christopher Columbus landed on what would later become St Croix, US Virgin Islands at Salt River Bay changing the course of the island’s history and setting the stage for 7 European Flags to fly over the island. This is the only spot in the United States where Columbus actually landed and was the first violent altercation between the Old World and the New. Salt River Bay National Historical Park and Ecological Preserve marks an area of incredible history not only for the island, but for the world in general.
For thousands of years, Arawak (Igneri and Taino) and Carib Indians inhabited the area now known as Salt River Bay/Columbus Landing. Archaeological research dating back to 1880 shows that the land here was a major religious and cultural area and had long-term permanent settlements. Arawak is a broad term that refers to the indigenous peoples of South America and the Caribbean who spoke a common language and had a shared culture. Taino is more commonly used for the “Island Arawaks” who stretched from the Greater Antilles up through the Lesser Antilles (where St Croix can be found) as opposed to the mainland Arawaks. These first inhabitants of the Caribbean Islands had a rich culture and history and previous excavations at Salt River revealed the only ceremonial Ball Court in the Caribbean here on St Croix, lending to it’s historical significance. The area was thriving with indigenous peoples cultivating manioc, soursop, papaya, guaba, sapote, yellow sapote, guava, sapodilla, and avocado and fishing in the locally rich waters.
Read more detail about the indigenous peoples of Salt River: Archeological Investigations at Salt River Bay National Historical Park and Ecological Preserve
On November 14, 1493, Columbus with his fleet of 17 ships landed on St Croix in search of fresh water and local guides to “help” them along the rest of their journey. A small party ventured onto the island and found a sparsely inhabited village. According to historic records, they found Taino Indians who said they’d been captured by Caribs taking over the island. (note: there is still debate as to who these peoples actually were – Taino vs. Carib) Columbus and his crew were en route taking the villagers back to their ship when they encountered a canoe with several Carib men and women. A skirmish ensued with Columbus’ men firing on the Indians and the Indians retaliating with arrows. Each side lost a man to the fight. At the time of this encounter, it is estimated that there were 20 Indian villages on St Croix with a total population of approximately 1,200. Columbus “claimed” the island for Spain calling it Santa Cruz.
For the next 100 years, the Spanish battled the local Taino and Carib Indians close to annihilation. By the early 1600’s, the island of Santa Cruz was deserted.
Nowadays, the Virgin Islands celebrates Virgin Islands/Puerto Rico Friendship Day in lieu of Columbus Day owing to the historic connections between the peoples of St Croix and Puerto Rico that date back to long before European contact.
Salt River National Historical Park and Ecological Preserve is now a part of the US National Park system and is a wonderfully serene spot to explore the natural wonders of our island.
History and nature buffs can book a kayak tour with Virgin Kayak Company to explore the mangrove coves and learn about the history from artist and tour operator Bryan Updyke. I highly encourage a visit to their shop and eco-camp, Cane Bay Campground, where you can see Bryan’s Taino-inspired artwork at his Caribbean Indigenous Arts & Crafts Museum that has been influenced by the indigenous pre-Columbian peoples of St Croix.
SCUBA divers can explore the underwater canyons in Salt River Bay teeming with life. In recent years, tech divers have explored the canyons to depths of 300 feet+.
Take an evening kayak tour of Salt River and experience the wonders of the Bio Bay – a smaller inlet of Salt River Bay that teems with bioluminescent dinoflagellates that light up the water like Avatar!
The beach at Columbus Landing is quiet and rarely busy. It offers great swimming and has a reef just offshore for snorkeling. There’s little to no shade and no facilities, so be sure to bring a cooler and some shade and most importantly, practice “Carry in, Carry out”.
Salt River and Columbus Landing are just one more reason to get out and explore our beautiful island while you are here!
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